Even More Perfect Apple Pie

To make the filling, in your absolutely largest bowl, combine both sugars, the salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and cloves. Peel, halve and core the apples and cut them into thin (scant 1/4-inch/6-mm) slices, adding them to the large bowl. Toss to coat the slices as much as possible. Set aside at room temperature for 1 to 4 hours.

To prepare the crust, make the pie dough according to your recipe’s instructions. If you need to chill it for an hour or two before rolling it out, you can do so now. If yours is already chilled and ready to go, roll out the first half on a well-floured counter into a 14-inch (35-cm) circle and transfer it to a 9-inch (23-cm) standard (not deep-dish) pie dish. With scissors or kitchen shears, trim the overhang to 1 inch (2.5 cm) all around. Refrigerate the pie dish and dough until needed.

For a regular pie lid, roll out the second dough half into the same-size circle, transfer it to a large parchment-lined baking sheet and chill until needed. For a lattice or woven pie lid, you can use the same-size circle, or you can just roll it into a rectangle at least 14 inches (35 cm) in one direction, and then as long or wide as you can get it in the other. Transfer it to a parchment-lined baking sheet and chill until needed.

Preheat an oven to 400°F (200°C).

To assemble the pie, stir the tapioca flour into the apple pie filling. Pour the filling into the prepared bottom crust and use your hands to pack and heap those softened apples as mounded as you can get them, then add a few more. Carefully pour any juices that have accumulated over the apples; do not leave any behind. Either place the second pie dough round over the filling or cut it into strips to lattice the top. Trim the top crust or lattice strips to the edge of the pie dish. Fold the overhang from the lower crust over to form a thick rim, then crimp it together with your fingers or a fork to seal it. Brush the top crust with the beaten egg, then sprinkle with coarse sugar, if desired. If your top crust is in one piece, cut a few vents in it with a sharp knife.

To bake the pie, reuse the sheet of parchment paper on the large baking sheet for easier cleanup, then transfer the prepared pie onto it. Bake for 75 minutes, rotating the baking sheet once or twice to ensure even color on the pie. If the pie is browning too fast, take a large square of aluminum foil, mold it over the back of a large bowl into a convex dome, then use that to cover the pie in the oven for the remaining baking time so it doesn’t brown much further. The pie is done when the juices are bubbling visibly through the vents or lattice, or when the internal temperature registers 195°F (91°C). A tester inserted into the pie shouldn’t hit any overtly crunchy apple pieces.

To serve, let the pie cool at room temperature for at least 1 hour before cutting into it. However, the filling will not fully thicken until it has fully cooled, ideally in the fridge for a couple of hours. You can rewarm slices as you serve them, if desired. Leftovers keep at room temperature for 2 to 3 days and in the fridge for 1 week. Serves 8 to 12.

Recipe courtesy of Deb Perelman, cookbook author and founder of Smitten Kitchen