Hand-Cut Pappardelle with Mushroom Ragu
Fresh pappardelle is the traditional partner for Italian ragu, a rich pasta sauce that’s usually made with ground meat and tomatoes. Here, however, we use the hand-cut noodles to showcase a vegetarian ragu, which gets its hearty texture from a mix of mushrooms and richness from Parmesan and a splash of cream. A KitchenAid stand mixer makes fast work of mixing and rolling out the dough, thanks to the specially designed roller attachment, but you can use a manual pasta roller if you prefer. The recipe calls for 00 flour, which is more finely ground and has a lower gluten content than all-purpose flour. If you don't have any, you can substitute 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour.
Ingredients:
For the pappardelle:
- 2 1/4 cups plus 1 Tbs. (10 1/2 oz./330 g) 00 flour
- 2 tsp. kosher salt
- 2 whole eggs plus 5 egg yolks
- 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 to 2 Tbs. water, plus more as needed
- Semolina flour for dusting
For the mushroom ragu:
- 1/4 cup (2 fl. oz./60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
- 1 large yellow onion, diced
- 1 celery stalk, diced
- 1 carrot, peeled and diced
- 1 parsnip, peeled and diced
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 oz. (30 g) dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes, then drained and chopped
- Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
- 8 Tbs. (1 stick) (4 oz./125 g) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
- 1 lb. (500 g) assorted fresh mushrooms, such as king oyster, portobello and trumpet, stemmed and cut into 1/2-inch (12-mm) pieces
- 3/4 cup (6 fl. oz./180 ml) dry red wine
- 1 Tbs. tomato paste
- 2 cans (each 28 oz./875 g) chopped plum tomatoes
- 1 Parmesan cheese rind
- 2 fresh rosemary sprigs
- 1 cup (4 oz./120 g) grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
- 1/4 cup (2 fl. oz./60 ml) heavy cream
Kosher salt- 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
Directions:
To make the pappardelle, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, beat together the 00 flour and salt on low speed until combined. Increase the speed to medium, add the whole eggs, egg yolks and olive oil and beat until the dough is crumbly, about 1 minute. Add the water 1 Tbs. at a time, beating until the dough comes together in a single mass, about 3 minutes.
Dust a work surface with semolina flour. Turn the dough out onto the floured surface and bring it together. Knead the dough until firm and smooth, about 10 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball, then flatten into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Attach the pasta roller to the stand mixer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, and keeping the other pieces covered with a kitchen towel, gently flatten the dough into a rectangle thin enough to fit through the pasta roller on the widest setting (about 1/4 inch/6 mm).
With the pasta roller set to the widest setting and the mixer speed set to low, roll the dough through twice. Place the dough on your work surface and fold it into thirds. Adjust the roller to the second widest setting and roll again. Repeat the process, setting the pasta roller one notch narrower each time, until you can just see your hand through the dough, about setting 4.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Dust the rolled-out sheet of dough with semolina flour, then trim the rounded ends to form a neat rectangle; discard the scraps. Cut the dough crosswise into 3 equal pieces, each 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) long and about 5 inches (13 cm) wide, then cut each piece lengthwise into 4 strips, each 1 1/4 inch (3 cm) wide. Toss with semolina flour and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Cover loosely with a kitchen towel while you repeat the process with the remaining dough. Let the pappardelle stand, covered, for up to 1 hour while you prepare the mushroom ragu.
To make the mushroom ragu, in a large sauté pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onion, celery, carrot and parsnip and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. If the vegetables get too dry, add more olive oil, 1 Tbs. at a time, as needed.
Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the porcini mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are softened and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to medium and add the butter and fresh mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter melts and the mushrooms are softened and starting to caramelize, 7 to 10 minutes.
Add the wine and tomato paste, bring to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes with their juices and stir to combine, then add the Parmesan rind and rosemary sprigs. Simmer over medium heat until the sauce is slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Stir in 1/2 cup (2 oz./60 g) of the Parmesan and the cream, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and keep warm while you cook the pasta, then remove and discard the Parmesan rind and rosemary sprigs.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the olive oil to the water to prevent sticking, then add the pappardelle and cook until al dente, about 3 minutes. Using a fine-mesh strainer, transfer the pappardelle directly from the cooking water to the pan with the sauce and toss to coat. Add 1/2 cup (4 fl. oz./125 ml) pasta cooking water and the remaining 1/2 cup (2 oz./60 g) Parmesan, toss to combine and cook until the sauce is silky and coats the pasta, 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer the pappardelle and sauce to warmed bowls, top with Parmesan and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.
Williams Sonoma Test Kitchen