Savory Cream Puffs with Goat Cheese Mousse

If you plan to bake all the puffs at once, position 1 rack in the upper third and 1 rack in the lower third of an oven; line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats. If you plan to freeze half or more of the puffs, position a rack in the center of the oven and line 1 baking sheet. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

To prepare the puffs, in a saucepan over medium heat, combine the water, milk, butter and salt and bring to a boil. When the butter is melted, remove the pan from the heat. Add the flour all at once and beat with a sturdy flexible spatula until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and leaves a film on the bottom (you might not get a film if your pan is nonstick), about 3 minutes.

Transfer the dough to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the flat beater, or into a large bowl that you can use with a hand mixer or the spatula. Let cool for 2 minutes.

Add the eggs one at a time, beating for 1 minute after each addition. You will have a smooth, shiny dough. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the Gruyère and Parmesan.

Using a small cookie scoop with a capacity of a heaping 1 Tbs., scoop out balls of dough and place on the prepared baking sheet(s), leaving a scant 2 inches (5 cm) between them. Alternatively, transfer the dough to a pastry bag and pipe mounds of dough onto the baking sheet(s). (You can make the puffs in advance and freeze them on the baking sheets until solid, then pack in airtight containers and freeze for up to 2 months. The puffs can be baked straight from the freezer, although you may need to bake them a few minutes longer.)

Brush the puffs lightly with the egg wash, then bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes; if you are baking 2 sheets of puffs, quickly rotate the sheets between the racks and from front to back halfway through baking.

Turn off the oven, open the door a crack (prop it slightly ajar with a wooden spoon) and let the puffs dry for about 10 minutes; they should feel firm and you should be able to peel them easily off the paper. Remove the baking sheet(s) from the oven, transfer the puffs to a wire rack and let cool completely before filling.

To prepare the mousse, in a small food processor, or in a bowl using a wooden spoon, combine the goat cheese and milk (or cream) and blend until smooth. If you used a food processor, transfer the mixture to a bowl.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the cream until soft to medium peaks form, similar in texture to whipped cream, 2 to 3 minutes. In two additions, carefully fold the whipped cream into the goat cheese mixture, being careful not to deflate the whipped cream. Season with a pinch of salt and a few grindings of pepper.

If using a pastry bag, transfer the goat cheese mixture to the bag and snip off a 1/2-inch (12-mm) opening. Alternatively, use a spoon.

To assemble, cut the puffs in half horizontally. Pipe or spoon the filling into the bottom halves of the puffs, dividing evenly. Cover with the top halves of the puffs, then sprinkle with Gruyère, Parmesan and pepper. Makes 30 to 40 puffs, depending on their size.

Williams Sonoma Test Kitchen